![]() ![]() You might get yourself a dedicated astro lens if you continue. It is always amazing to realize how fast it rotates ! I also like "moving-sky" (or more accurately "rotating-earth") movies a lot, especially keeping the polar star in frame. I'm using Capture One, so using a "dehaze" function is unfortunately not as straightforward as it can be using Lightroom. ![]() Namely, I indeed tried to decrease the light pollution by playing with the curves, and I also tried to correct the colors by decreasing the luminance of the orange and the green tones (and a little bit of the cyan ones as well), trying to match what my eye could see in the dark. I'm not a post-processing expert, but I did some on those shots. I thus decided to crank the ISO up to 3200 : noise is still manageable to my taste, and signal is clear.Īs the comet started to faint (this was late July it was not visible to the naked eye anymore), I indeed needed a longer exposure. The result was not satisfactory (low noise indeed, but low signal also.). Many thanks for the compliment and for your comprehensive comment.įor my previous (and really first) attempt, I used a lower ISO setting (something between 16 ISO) and a longer exposure (something above 20 s), as I wanted to minimize noise as much as I could. Noise usually doesn't bother me, but with m 4/3, it's such a struggle for astro. Maybe not the best for Milky Way, but, really, there are lots of interesting things in the sky to shoot an many FLs. With f/8, you get significantly more duration before streaking. I recently got the 8 mm fisheye, but haven't tried it for astro. I did some moving-sky movies early in my "astro career." You can even do that in-camera with time-lapse mode, now. (You need to wait to see the effect for your current exposure to finish in order to see the effect.) Just start conservatively, and, if you need more, just do more on subsequent exposures. Lightening up some foreground rocks, for example. In addition, I did a little light painting with a flashlight during live composite. Getting star trails with live composite is totally easy. So, I could get rid of that, making the sky darker, by decreasing blue on the color wheel. I've also had some shots where the sky appeared pretty blue. I have been able to improve some astro shots a lot just with this method.ĭehaze might help, too. I have used curves to set the low-end slop pretty flat, with suppresses light pollution, but not stars (well, most of them). You didn't say you post-processed any, but you can help your shots a lot.sometimes. If I think I'm going to print large, I try to use 160/FL. Obviously you do what you need to to get the comet, but I sometimes print large and find star streaking really annoying. You must know the "rule of 500" (rule of 250 for m4/3 focal lengths) which you're fine with, except for the 40 mm setting. I tried several times, but weather did not cooperate (summer fog in San Fran area, mornings and evenings). Looks like you did marvelously, for (nearly) first try. ![]()
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